Reminiscences
Into the heart of the Sundarbans
The plane would take off at 10 a.m. so we hurried for the airport right after breakfast. The others were still arriving. Everyone was wearing dark clothes to match with the flora. Minu and Shimul were chirpy. So were the others. As soon as Milon da called us to board the plane, the entire group of twenty began their exciting journey to the Sundarbans.
We arrived at Jessore airport and took a bus to Mongla port. There was the private boat Chhuti that would take us on the final leg of the journey. The pleasure boat was very much suited to our needs clean, bright and large enough to be comfortable even for a large group like ours. The cabins were on the main deck. The crew cabins and kitchen were in the sunken deck. Showers, wash basins and toilets were at the back. As we stood on the deck, the fresh air was already casting a spell on us.
We gathered at the lounge for coffee. The stunning lounge had a huge tree bark, placed right in the middle, with a table built around it. It had windows all along the room so we had a panoramic view of the riverside. Soon after settling down, the boat started its cruise southwards along the Pashur river.
Lunch was soon served. The items ranged from pakora, to paratha, prawns, fried fish, chicken, polau, pancakes, salads and desserts.
At night, the crew arranged a barbeque on the top deck. It was mid-January, and we had windbreakers and caps. But even then, we huddled around the fire. The tantalizing smell of kebabs, and a long session of songs from bygone days, put us in the mood for a hearty dinner. Catherine and Tareq Masud filled us with stories from their movie 'Mukti'r Gaan'. Mahfuz Anam reminded us that we had reached the point where we would be totally cut off from the outside world.
We anchored in the river, inside the forest. We would have our first glimpse of the Sundarbans in the morning. The generators were shut off and the kerosene lamps had been lighted. As we drifted silently we were asked to talk in low tones so as to enjoy the thick jungle silence.
The Sundarbans, as the guide told us, is the world's largest mangrove forest. Even though there was once a large number of tigers to be spotted here, their numbers have dwindled. Guide Travels, our tour organizer, arranges regular tours for BBC, Discovery Channel, National Geographic and NHK who come to film this breathtaking part of the land. It is the largest part of the delta that has been deposited by the rivers Ganges and Brahmaputra that converge on the Bengal basin.
Later that night a few of us took a boat ride through the creeks and canals. This was a frightful experience, because even though we had a guide, we were totally unarmed expect for torches. Under the moonlight, the shores looked a strange blend of beauty and danger. Every minute we felt that a crocodile or a leopard would leap at us! The boat ride was horrifyingly exciting…!
When we returned safely to the ship we all headed for a long overdue sleep. Nestled deep inside the jungle in our ship, we knew we had to have a deep sleep if we were to make most of the next day.
Early morning and everyone dressed up as soon as possible with walking shoes and boots. After a hearty breakfast of chapatti, parathas and omelettes, the entire group set out for a trek through the jungle. It was initially quite a difficult walk, since the roots of the trees stuck out of the ground. We came to know that trees breathe through these roots. Some took boat rides and some stayed back to walk on the beach.
In the afternoon we headed for the wooden tower that was almost six stories high, deep inside the jungle. In small groups, we took turns at climbing to the tower top. From there we could see a vast expanse of the jungle. What attracted us was a nearby watering hole. All along its banks stood animals and birds of all shapes, sizes and colours, drinking from the same pond and totally oblivious to the others! But the moment we tried to get closer to take a picture, their ears would pick up and they would dash in to the shrubbery in the blink of an eye. It truly was a treat to watch wild life in natural surroundings.
Gradually afternoon light began to fade away and we had to hurry back to the ship. As much as we liked the scene no one wanted to stay back after dark!
After a hot cup of tea with cookies we rested for a while. Meanwhile, Badal bhai and Milon da were making plans for our next expedition to an island called the Egg Island the very next morning. Unfortunately we had a late start due to thick fog. As the sun rose over the jungle, the fog faded away and the ship tugged an hour before we reached our destination.
The ship was now anchored near an island and we took a smaller boat to the island itself. Our chief guide and MD of Guide Travels And Tours Milon informed us that this was a totally uninhibited island. And it looked like it. The white sand was unspoiled, there was wild foliage all along, and not a sound to indicate that there were anyone else other than us on the island. Some of the younger ones excitedly went for a swim in the Bay of Bengal while others set up a volleyball net.
We were all advised not to litter the virgin island. We caught glimpses of a boat catching fish with the help of an otter. We bought live king prawns from the fishermen for dinner and had a grand feast followed by salad and desserts.
We all knew that the trip would end the next day. But the images of the sunset, the mid-night boat rides, the vast plains of the jungles, the sound of the forests would remain with us for a long time to come. Imagine on a lazy afternoon, sailing gently down the river, with hundreds of kilometers of virgin uninhibited forest on either side and the warm sun on your back……all you need is like minded friends to tag along and the memories will last you a lifetime.
For all latest news, follow The Daily Star's Google News channel.
Comments