Cover Story
OLD TALES OF NEW MARKET
What do you expect to take away from a shop that you visit on a regular basis? Some clothes if you are visiting a clothing store, gadgets if you are in an electronic shop or greeting cards from a novelty store. Shops only sell tangible objects that you have to pay hard earned money for. Dhaka's New Market, however, is much more than just a market for trade. It's a hub for nostalgia, a place to evoke special memories of bygone days.
The chief attraction of New Market is not its wide array of stores but its rich and extensive history. Photo: Prabir Das
Photo: Prabir Das
‘Tis the season to be a shopaholic. Many of us, despite the weather and the toll fasting takes, are making our last harried stops at malls and boutiques for Eid clothes and gifts. We run in and out of stores, laden with bags, paying little mind to the surroundings, plush as they may be, for it is the goods these stores sell that we're interested in. But at Dhaka's historic New Market, the chief attraction might as well be its history, its famed past - that unmissable sense that generations of Dhakaites have stepped through its gateways in search of good bargains.
Old New Market
The year 1952 was a significant one for the people of East Pakistan. The central government of Pakistan had declared Urdu to be the sole national language in 1948, leading to extensive protests amongst the majority of East Pakistan. On February 21, 1952, students of Dhaka University and political activists organised a protest movement where a huge number of demonstrators were killed by the police.
The year marked the beginning of a people's struggle for freedom on one hand and the inception of one of the most ambitious municipal projects on the other. Completed in 1954, New Market was originally intended to cater to the needs of the elite population of Dhaka living in Dhanmandi and Azimpur. The market complex was built on 35 acres of land with a space for 440 shops. However, only 25-30 shops were launched during the initial years of the complex, leaving ample space for people to browse and shop in peace.
Symphony Records still has a wide collection of old music cassettes. Photo: Prabir Das
Most people would visit the crowded, noisy, narrow streets of Old Dhaka to get their shopping done. The emergence of a cleaner, more spacious market proved to be a pleasant change for the people of the city.
“New Market originally had an elitist feel to it, as only a number of shops were allowed to start their business within the complex. This, however, didn't last for long. More and more stores began to open shop as customers were demanding for more choices and variety,” says Shamim Ali, long time manager of Fancy Store.
The market has improved with time as more facilities were added to enhance people's shopping experience. The garden in the centre of the market gave way to a mosque, and separate washrooms for men and women were added. Wooden fixtures in stores were gradually replaced by fittings and fixtures that would suit the new eras. The market has become a shrine of sorts for shoppers from all over the country and from all walks of life. A visit to Dhaka is no longer complete without a quick stopover at New Market.
The sari shops have always been instrumental in attracting shopper to New Market since its construction in 1954. Photo: Prabir Das
Once Upon a Tea Time
“I miss the New Market of my childhood days,” says 63 year-old Mala Ahmed, “My sisters and I would sneak out of college to shop at the various sari shops in the market. The shop keepers were extremely cordial, greeting us with cold drinks, paying close attention to our wants, quite unlike the unprofessional treatment meted out by stores nowadays.”
Mala fondly remembers the cream rolls of the only bakery situated in New Market at that time. The rolls were a novelty of sorts in the country then and only a few bakeries would make these delicious treats.
“I would often throw a fit if my father didn't get cream rolls for me from New Market's Olympia Bakery. My sisters branded me as the spoilt one but I wouldn't care and my father had to give in,” laughs Mala.
Olympia Bakery has been in business since 1951 and was one of the first stores to open shop in New Market. The only bakery in the market, Olympia soon became a sought after place for exhausted customers looking for a quick bite to eat. Starting with their celebrated Ovaltine biscuits to their loved pastries, Olympia offered refined baked treats to satisfy the sweet tooth of people of all ages.
Mohammad Jahirul Islam, salesperson of the New Market branch, speaks about the bakery with a sense of pride and ownership. “Customers visiting our bakery have been coming here since the very beginning of its initiation. They are a dedicated bunch who passed on their love for our baked goods to their children and even their grandchildren,” he says.
The cookies, chanachur and other such treats would be kept in transparent jars, allowing customers to pick out a biscuit and munch on it while sipping on their evening tea, says Islam. However, these products are now available in packets and boxes to meet hygiene and sanitation demands.
Despite being diagnosed with diabetes, Mala Ahmed can't resist the urge to occasionally request her son to get her cream rolls from Olympia whenever he visits New Market.
“The taste of these rolls reminds me of the father who would travel miles just to indulge the spoilt demands of his daughter,” she says with a smile.
Love Blossoms In New Market
On a rainy, windy day like the ones we have been witnessing lately, Shamsuddin Chowhdury was sent on an errand against his will by his mother. As he sullenly entered the shop where he was to pick up a sari his mother had ordered, Shamsuddin bumped into an elderly man on his way out of the store. Even before he had the time to gather himself, an anxious face peeked out from behind the man he had collided with. Shamsuddin was instantly smitten.
He had fallen in love with that face and constantly searched for excuses to see it again. He began to visit the shop situated in New Market regularly in hopes of seeing her again. On one such visit to the shopping complex, Shamsuddin saw the girl once more. She noticed him this time and shyly returned his smile. This was the beginning of a silent romance that continued within the walls of the market. They never spoke but only acknowledged each other's presence through the exchange of smiles. Fortunately for the silent lovers, their parents took pity on their plight and they were married within a couple of months.
“New Market obviously has a special place in our hearts, as that's where I first met my wife of 40 years. That place has changed my life forever; now I won't say whether the change was for the better or not,” says Shamsuddin with a laugh as his wife slaps him playfully on the arm.
Bashiruddin Tailors has a loyal client base extending to generations. Photo: Prabir Das
The Medicine Man
Amidst the modernised, up-to-date stores in New Market stands a shop with a more antiquated feel to it. With rundown counters and archaic displays on the walls, the store looks as though it might go out of business any time soon. Take a closer look and you'll see a long line of customers waiting their turn outside the shop.
This is New Life, a pharmacy which has been specialising in homeopathic medicine since the 1950s. Despite the strong smell of medicine wafting within the store, regulars linger around waiting to consult the in-house practitioner or offering wisdom to the newer customers.
Motaher Ali, founder of the New Life group, worked for the Indian Air Force in undivided India before joining the Ministry of Law. His interest in alternative medicine led to a full-time professional commitment to develop homoeopathy, unani and ayurved science services in Bangladesh.
His son, Dr SM Enamul Hoque, who has set up his homeopathy practice in the New Market branch of the pharmacy, says that his father's spiritual leanings attracted him to the study of alternative medicine. This encouraged generations of the family to pursue this profession. Hoque's daughter is also studying medicine in hopes of following her grandfather's footsteps.
“My father established the first homeopathic medicine manufacturing company, New Life and Co. Ltd, in Bangladesh in 1961. Most of the medicines you find here are manufactured by our company; we only import medicines that are difficult to manufacture in the country,” he says.
A customer at the pharmacy cuts in at this juncture of our conversation, stating that her whole family, beginning with her parents to her in-laws and even her adult nephews and nieces are loyal, satisfied customers of the pharmacy. Unlike other alternative medicine organisations, New Life never compromised with their standards to maximize profits and so, has been able to hold on to its booming client base, she says.
What Suits the Father Suits the Son
Legacy can only be carried forward when your dream is adopted by your family members. Instead of falling to ruins after the death of its founder, the celebrated Bashiruddin Tailors, established in the 1950s in New Market, expanded in size, stature and variety over the years under the dedicated, watchful eye of his son Md Harun.
The tailoring shop has a loyal client base, extending to generations of the same family who prefer the historic shop for their detailed work and distinctive designs. People from all walks of life, starting from ministers to office goers, have been coming to Bashiruddin Tailors for ethnic outfits that will make them stand out in a crowd.
“Even Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman used to get his clothes made by my father. We are known for our 'Mujib' coats that are in demand by politicians and regular shoppers alike,” says Harun.
Just as we are concluding our chat session with Harun, an elderly man walks in with a young man who seemed to be in his mid-20s. The man speak in an affectionate tone with Harun, calling him by his first name, and requesting him to see what could be done for his son, who, he says, would soon be getting married.
Harun politely excuses himself from the conversation we are having, adding with an embarrassed smile, “Customers, first.”
Dhakaites from all strata of life have forever preferred New Market over the glitzier malls and boutiques. Photo: Prabir Das
The Lone 'Saloon'
Amidst the hustle and bustle, and the numerous impressive stores of New Market, it'd be easy to miss a small shop positioned in one corner of the busy marketplace. But make no mistake; this seemingly insignificant shop holds considerable weight for market regulars and staunch loyalists. The sole barber shop of New Market has always been and is still, quite in demand amongst loyal patrons, shop owners, employees and even hired help of the market.
Bangladesh Hairdresser Saloon had humble beginnings. A small room with a couple of chairs and just the barber owner; this scene gave way to a bigger space in the beginning of the 21st century with six more chairs added to accommodate more customers. The shop, currently under the supervision of Arifur Rahman, son of the late founder of the shop, employs four full-time staff. Originally serving as a stopover for a simple haircut, a clean shave or a quick trim of the moustache, the shop now offers a wide array of services for men, including facials, hair styling and even manicures and pedicures.
This ability to adapt with changing times is the reason why the barber shop is still popular amongst customers, says Abdul Sattar, an employee working for the shop since the last 24 years.
“Barber shops usually act as conversation spots for people. You meet new faces here, make friends here, get to speak your heart out with the assistants who listen quietly, nodding and shaking their heads at the right time. Our shop has become an 'adda' of sorts for regulars,” says Sattar.
The shop might have changed to adjust to shifting trends but it has still held on to a part that reminds patrons of its historic bearings. A couple of dilapidated leather chairs, dating back to 50 years, are the only remnants of the store's humble origin.
From LPs to Cassettes to CDs
The famous cream roll of Olympia Bakery. Photo: Prabir Das
Nowadays you will find CD stores in the nooks and crannies of every neighbourhood of the city. However, Symphony Records still remains a favourite for music lovers everywhere, as you can be sure that if you don't find a record anywhere else in the city, you are sure to find it here.
“I travel all the way from Mohakhali to New Market to visit Symphony to buy music CDs, as I know that they will have the record I'm looking for. They make sure that they don't let me go empty handed even when they don't have the album that I'm looking for in their stock at the moment,” says school teacher, Asif Sikder.
Opened around 25 years ago, Symphony Records ensures that their loyal customers don't ever leave their store dissatisfied.
“If our client is looking for a music CD that we don't have at that moment, we note down the name of the album and try to get it for them within the week,” says Nokul Chandra Burman, Manager of Symphony's New Market branch.
The store used to sell even LPs during its initial years but a lack of demand forced them to stop supplying these old music records. However, music enthusiasts of an older generation still visit the store for music cassettes that they won't find anywhere else.
Despite a loyal customer base, sales are down, says Burman.
“Most music albums can be downloaded online and so, people don't feel the need to buy movies or albums from stores anymore,” he adds sadly.
Freedom Fighters of New Market
ABM Shamsuddin and Golam Kabir were students during the Liberation War movement. Their love for the country and the desire to see it free from the clutches of the oppressive Pakistani regime encouraged the two of them to join the war. However, they weren't allowed to do so as they were too young; both were only in middle school when the war broke out.
This didn't stop the youngsters to do whatever they could to help propel the movement and support freedom fighters in the field in every way they could.
The alternative medicine pharmacy New Life has a nostalgic feel to it. Photo: Prabir Das
“Freedom fighters would hide in our houses to escape arrest. They would stay for a couple of days in our house without fearing detection and then be on their way. We often would hide arms and ammunition in our house to protect our brothers in the war field,” says Shamsuddin.
When his uncle left to join the war, Kabir too left with him, not knowing what the outcome of his decision would result in.
“Nowadays we hear people claiming that they fought for their country and demanding recognition. I fought for my country too but I've never craved publicity for that. When you want monetary benefits in return for your contributions in the war, you are basically selling your patriotism, your sense of righteousness,” says Kabir.
They both now run the Dhaka Book Syndicate that was launched in New Market in 1958 by Shamsuddin's father and Kabir's father-in-law Mohammad Azizul Hakim. The shop is the go-to place for medical and public service books. The young rebels who fought for an independent nation are now elderly gentlemen, content with their lot in life, satisfied that they are able to carry forward the dream of a man they both loved and respected.
History in Its Heart
Even though the very structure of New Market has changed over time, the place still evokes images of an era many of us are unaware of. The market has been able to keep intact pieces of individual and national history. And that's the reason why we consider New Market to be such an important part of our national heritage; there is something truly special about a place that can captivate our memories and take us back to a history that is familiar but lost in the depths of time.
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