Boat race returns to old Dhaka's Nawab Bari pond

After a pause of more than three decades, Nawab Bari’s pond, also known as Gol Talab, came alive once again with the return of a long-lost tradition. On August 6 and 7, thousands gathered around the historic pond near Ahsan Manzil, to witness the revival of boat race (Nouka Baich) and a series of traditional water-based competitions.

Khawja Rashed, a member of the Nawab Bari family, said the event used to be held every August, with the last one taking place in August 1992. After nearly 35 years, the Nawab Bari Angling Committee has revived the tradition, bringing the event back to the pond and reconnecting it with its heritage and community traditions.

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I visited the event on the second day, when the semi-finals and finals were taking place, and the atmosphere was overwhelming. The area around the pond was packed with people, with barely any space to move. Stalls lined the surroundings, selling everything from fuchka and traditional pitha to tehari and other local favourites, alongside displays of traditional crafts. The air carried the aroma of food, lively gossip, and excitement.

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Photo: Jawwad Sami Neogi

The pond, enclosed by metal fences, saw crowds climbing up for a better view as the competitions intensified. And when the Nouka Baich began, the energy peaked. Cheers erupted from all sides, echoing across the water. What is usually a calm and peaceful place transformed into a vibrant atmosphere of celebration, creating an experience unlike anything I had witnessed before.

Gol Talab is one of the few ponds in Dhaka that still carries traces of the city’s past. Located in the busy area of Islampur, the oval-shaped pond offers a rare sense of calm among the crowded surroundings. Locals still use the pond for bathing, while some visit to fish for a small fee. Beyond its everyday use, the pond holds a long and fascinating history.

There are different stories about how the pond was created. The exact date of the excavation is unknown, but some members of the Nawab family believe it dates back around 400 years. Now, it is owned by the beneficiaries of Moulvi Khwaja Abdullah Welfare Trust and managed by the Nawab Bari Angling Committee.

Alongside Nouka Baich, there were competitions such as swimming, bar-crossing, water polo, and the duck-hand game. Interestingly, only members of the Nawab Bari lineage through the daughter’s side were allowed to compete, preserving a unique family tradition that has been maintained over generations.

As the boats raced across Gol Talab and crowds gathered around its banks, the revival brought a forgotten tradition back to life. More than just a sporting event, it offered a chance to celebrate Nawab Bari’s heritage and keep a part of Old Dhaka’s history alive for future generations.